How to Make a Costume

How to make a costume
By Kukla_tko42

Making a costume is a process consisting of three parts: Design, Construction, and Finishing.

Before you start, take accurate measurements of your model or yourself. This is a two-person process: One person to be measured and one person to do the measuring.

This first part is often times the simplest.
This is why your friends want to design costumes for you to make. The design comes from an idea, and the idea can come from anywhere. If you have unlimited time and funds, feel free to draw pictures of what you want your costume to look like. You can then draft patterns based upon your own drawings or the drawings submitted by your friends.

If your funds and or time are not unlimited, we suggest starting by looking for an existing pattern that is similar to the outfit you wish to create. For example, a bodysuit pattern would work for many super hero costumes, whether it is meant to be for Batman, Superman, or Catwoman. You can also mix and match patterns. Try not to be distracted by the colors and textures shown in the examples on the cover of the pattern. Try to prevent your friends from being distracted by the colors and textures shown. Be sure to read the type of fabric suggested for use in the pattern. If the pattern calls for a stretchy fabric, do not attempt to substitute a non-stretchy fabric and vice-versa.

Once you have discovered the pattern that will suit your needs, it is time to find the fabric for your project. It is possible to select the fabric first and then seek a pattern, or you can choose the pattern first and then select the fabric. In either case, if you are using something from your “stash” be aware that it will be a half-yard short of what you need. Be prepared to compensate for this.
If you are purchasing fabric, remember to check the content of that fabric and note any special laundering instructions. Rayon will shrink, as will some cotton fabrics. If you intend to launder your costume in a standard washing machine, be sure to pre-wash the fabrics before you begin. If you plan to dry-clean them, you can still pre-wash unless it is not recommended.
Be sure to also read the pattern’s instructions for notions. If it calls for a zipper, be sure to acquire the zipper before you begin. Ditto for any buttons, snaps, boning, piping, lining fabric, and interfacing.
Special note: Do not ignore calls for interfacing. This way leads not only to madness, but to costume pieces that will not behave themselves or look the way you want them to. Interfacing is your friend.
Also invest in a new spool of thread in the appropriate color(s). Do not assume that you have the correct color; you will not. If you have recently purchased the correct color for another project, it will not be where you left it. Do not attempt to use outdated or cheap threads. A few extra bucks will prevent a wardrobe malfunction later.

Now that you have completed the design process, it is time to begin construction.
Step 1: Remove the cat from your work surface.
Step 2: Clear your work surface. Put away all the things that are currently residing on your nice cutting table/dining room table/craft table/floor. Note: The Floor is not an optimum work surface.
Step 3: Once the work surface has been cleared, set up the ironing board and plug in the iron.
Step 4: Remove the cat from the work surface. Lay out your fabrics.
Step 5: Open the pattern. Remove the tissue paper and instructions. Refer to the instructions to determine which pieces you will need.
Step 6: Unfold the tissue paper carefully. Find all of the pattern pieces and cut them free of the tissue paper. We recommend cutting away all excess paper at this time, taking into consideration the measurements of the model, and how they relate to the completely random size assigned by the pattern company.
Note: Do not go by a “dress size”, it will not be the same as the pattern’s size.
Step 7: Remove the cat from the ironing board. Press the paper carefully to remove wrinkles and restore it to the correct size and dimensions.
Step 8: Remove the cat from the fabric that has been laid out.
Step 9: Lay out the pattern pieces according to the instructions. *Note: You may need to look around to find the instructions. They’re probably on the ironing board. Under the cat.
Step 10: Refer again to the instructions to figure out which pattern piece you are missing. Find pattern piece. It is likely either still trapped in the tissue paper or under your work surface, unless your cat has taken it into the other room.
Step 11: Lay out the pattern pieces according to the diagram. Pay careful attention to which pieces go where, and if the fabric has “nap”, be sure that the pieces are all facing the correct direction.
Step 12: Google “Nap”.
Step 13: (Optional) Take a nap.
Alternate step 13: Take a drink.
Step 14: There are several methods for cutting out these pieces. Traditionally, the method is to pin the tissue paper to the fabric and then cut around it. After a few years of using this tried-and-true method, you will discover that it has a side effect of homicidal tendencies. To combat this, take a drink or research other methods.
The professional method involves something called Fabric Weights. These are small weights that can be placed on the tissue to hold it still while you cut out the fabric.
The Kukla Method involves random small heavy things from around the house (the scissors count) and a sharpie. One holds the tissue still and uses an erasable marker, chalk, or a sharpie (Guess what? That’s the seam allowance, so who cares?) to mark around the edges of the pattern.
Mark also the bizarre and unparseable symbols printed on the pattern pieces. They will make no sense to you until you are midway through assembly and suddenly need every single one of them. You can place a pin to indicate a dot, or use a marker. We do not recommend a sharpie. Do not ask why.
Step 15: Fold the tissue paper pattern piece together with the fabric you have just cut.
Step 16: (Optional) As it is now 3am, go to bed. You have work in the morning.

After ignoring step 16 or after you have had a refreshing sleep, it is now time to begin construction.
Yes, I did already say that it was time to begin construction. For those of you who have never made a costume, we want you to understand that at this point all we have are a bunch of random pieces of fabric, and we have been working on the project for several hours already. This is also the magical point in the project when everyone wants to know how it is going. The answer is, “Er, I’m past the half-way point.” This is true. It always takes about twice as long to cut fabric as it does to sew it. There are exceptions to this rule, chief among them are CORSETS. At this point if any part of the costume is a corset, we are no where near the half way point.

Continuing the construction process:
Step 17: Retrieve costume pieces and notions.
Step 18: Clear off the work surface. Remove the cat from the work surface, both before and after you clear the other clutter.
Step 19: Set up the sewing machine if you haven’t already done so.
Wind a bobbin in the appropriate color.
Change the needle. Choose a needle appropriate to the fabric.
Thread the machine.
Optional step: Search the whole house for the correct power cord for the sewing machine. Those of you who have a cord hard-wired to your machine (Bernina 1630 owners, we’re looking at you) may feel free to skip this step.
Step 20: Search for your pattern instructions. They may be near your scissors. No, we can’t tell you which way the Great Scissors Migration has gone.
Step 21: Sew your first seam.
Step 22: Sew your second seam. Remember that you were supposed to press your first seam.
Step 23: Remove the cat from the ironing board. Press both seams open, or to one side.
Step 24: Remove the cat from your chair. Sew the next several seams, pressing as you go.
Step 25: Figure out which seams need to be removed, due to improper assembly. This is not an optional step. On the off chance that all of the seams went in correctly and smoothly, you will still second-guess yourself and wind up taking out a seam anyway.
Step 26: Search for the tissue pattern pieces, to determine where the dots and other weird symbols were supposed to be, as one of the pieces of fabric has lost its chalk mark/pin or wasn’t marked to begin with.
Step 27: Realize that the pattern called for a lining. Remove the cat from work area with extreme prejudice.
Step 28: Lay out the lining pieces. Cut using the tissue paper pieces from cutting the main fabric.
Step 29: Search all through the house for all of the pattern pieces. One of them will be in either the bathroom or the kitchen. Scold the house fairies.
Step 30: Sew the lining together according to the instructions, including step 25.
Step 31: Sew lining to fabric according to instructions. Take care not to be discouraged if this goes poorly; no one will see your lining.

Now that you have assembled your pieces, try them on. It is now time to move on to the third phase: Finishing.

Make any alterations that the garment requires. This will mean connecting with your friend if you are making this for them. Adjust seams where necessary. You will likely have to adjust seams, since you probably did not take enough measurements of your model.
You may wish to serge certain seams. Do not serge them until you are sure of the fit of the garment.
Hem the garment according to the model it is meant for.
Add additional details and trims.
If there is a zipper, it will have been installed during assembly. If it has buttons, now is a good time to make your button holes, then mark the position of the buttons and sew the buttons into place.
Same for hooks and eyes, eyelets, grommets, and Velcro closures.

A word of warning: The final phase of this project will likely be taking place on the evening before the garment is intended to be worn or competed. Be aware of this when planning your costume outing.

And that is how you make a costume.